Meal kits put to the test

Most of us are looking for ways to make our dinner routines easier, healthier and more delicious. Can a weekly box of ingredients and recipes do that? 

It depends on what you’re looking for.

For those who loathe meal planning and grocery shopping, a meal kit subscription can ease that burden.

For those learning to cook, the easy-to-follow recipe instructions and included spices make even exotic dishes approachable.

For those with special dietary needs or those interested in expanding their horizons beyond their usual fare, a meal kit can bring it all right to your doorstep.

But for those short on time…sorry, dinner still generally takes just as long to prepare when you’re cooking out of a box.

No doubt you've heard the names or seen the commercials on TV or social media. Blue Apron, Hello Fresh, Plated, Green Chef — these are just a few of the companies offering packaged meals with portioned ingredients. The trend started in Scandinavia and elsewhere in Europe, said Erik Thoresen, a principal at Technomic Inc., a research and consulting firm serving the food and food service industry.

Prior to last year, that's where most of the growth was. But now, he said, "the U.S. is forecast to become the largest single market in the coming years."

Estimates show there to be more than 100 meal kit businesses operating globally today, he said. (And there are niche plans, including one called Green Blender that offers only smoothies.)

The market leader in the U.S. is Blue Apron, a company that started in New York City in August 2012. Serving just this country, it now ships 8 million meal-servings every month. A major competitor, Hello Fresh, which started in Germany in 2011 and came to the U.S. in 2012, ships 7.5 million meal-servings monthly to eight countries and the U.K.

A study released by Technomic in January said the global meal kit market last year topped $1 billion. The market in the U.S. alone, according to the study, will grow tenfold over the next five years.

The appeal of dinners in a box goes beyond convenience, Thoresen said, citing entertainment and healthy living as other factors.

And while the core audience in the U.S. began as young professionals, he said, "we anticipate that the market will expand to include older consumers and those in lower-income groups."

Testing it out

To better understand the appeal — and to help readers considering a go at a meal kit program — we tested eight meal kit companies over the summer. For consistency we ordered one week's worth of three meals (two servings each) from each, an option every company offered. (Most also offer family plans of four servings.) 

The fact that customers are still doing the chopping, sauteéing and cleaning is where we struggled the most with our test. With busy schedules, having a 30-to-50-minute dinner assignment waiting in your fridge (not to mention three, all perishable) at times felt like a burden. By the time one of us had a free night to make Beef Bourguignon (estimated prep and cook time: 50 minutes — the longest of any we tested), it had sat for nearly a week and the beautiful, thin green beans were showing their age.

And all the work with no promise of leftovers? That may appeal to some, but not to us.

Then there's price. The services we tested offer plans that range from $8.74 to $19.50 per serving (on the expensive end was Chef'd, which lets you purchase meals a la carte with varying price points — few inexpensive). Most companies charge $10 to $12 per serving.

If you have a decently stocked kitchen, these kits won’t save you money. We priced out the cost of ingredients for one meal per company at local grocery stores, including the excess you would have to buy (a whole package of herbs even if it calls for one sprig, a whole jar of Champagne vinegar even if you need just a tablespoon), and the results varied widely. Most totals were around the same price we paid for the portioned-out ingredients, $10 to $15 per serving (but buying it yourself, you're left with extra spices and other ingredients you can use in the future).

One exception we encountered: the Martha & Marley Spoon recipe we priced ended up being $28 per serving when we bought the ingredients ourselves, vs. the $10.25 per serving they charge. One ingredient (bamboo rice) was not readily available at area grocery stores and cost $10 to order online; other ingredients included an $11 bottle of mirin, $10 container of white miso and $10 bottle of toasted sesame oil.

If you're into cooking with exotic ingredients, this is an economical way to try something new without filling your pantry with items you may not know what to do with, or even where to find. Many of the recipes we tried included ingredients you may not see at a typical grocery store — less common varieties of mushrooms, specialty seasoning blends, sustainably raised seafood. One seasoning we tried to price was carried at only one store in the Milwaukee area.

While meal kits may not help your grocery budget, they certainly do add a level of convenience. No measuring spices (although it feels a bit ludicrous shaking ⅛ teaspoon garlic powder from a tiny plastic bag), no worries about whether you have everything you need for dinner, no searching grocery aisles.

It's also fun, even for experienced cooks, to try recipes that may be a bit outside your norm without having to do any research.

The logistics

Each of the eight services we tested worked relatively the same way — you sign up, set a delivery date (or weekly day), select from the meal options for that week and receive an insulated cardboard box filled with ingredients and recipe cards. All eight shipments arrived on time, with food sufficiently chilled and packaged so it would remain cold even if it were to sit on your doorstep for the rest of the day.

Each box had any meat or seafood sandwiched by ice packs on the bottom, with produce and dry goods on top. The food quality overall was exceptional, with just two instances of spotty green beans and shriveled zucchini. Most meals kept well in the refrigerator for several days.

The recipe cards included with each box were a surprising bright spot (and oddly similar among brands). They all included clear instructions on large cardstock with color photos illustrating various steps in the preparation. Estimated prep and cook times were accurate, except for one meal from Peach Dish that took twice as long as the recipe card estimated.

Criticism

The meal kit concept has triggered criticism for its ample packaging. Every ingredient is packaged in its own bag or small plastic container, sometimes further grouped into larger bags and housed with disposable ice packs and an insulation liner.

"While there has been a lot of discussion, particularly around social media, regarding packaging, this does not appear to be holding many consumers back from participating in the market," said Thoresen. "In the long run, this will potentially be an issue that the industry must contend with, however."

The companies do suggest ways of recycling and reusing the packaging materials, but we found some of their recycling suggestions far-fetched (anyone feel like washing out and peeling stickers off 20 small plastic bags then taking them to a plastic bag recycling drop bin?). And realistically, people need only so many ice packs and small plastic containers in their collection.

Other cons: Meals will vary in how much they appeal to anyone without universally accepting taste buds. Picky eaters may not find much that satisfies.

Those who don't really have time to cook may want to spend their money on takeout or a personal chef service; these meals do require at least a half-hour of work and, they have to be made within a few days of delivery. This could also take away from the sense of spontaneity some people enjoy when it comes to cooking; we found ourselves holding back on buying inspiring veggies at the farmers market or trying that recipe we just came across on social media because the next dinner we made had to be that Buffalo Blue Chicken Bowl that had been waiting.

On the flip side — be warned — the services could become addictive. Maybe that's just a con for your wallet (or your own kitchen creativity).

Praise

These services do take a lot of the thinking out of dinnertime. When dinner arrives on your doorstep, grocery store visits become shorter and you can put your cookbooks and newspaper clippings (right?) away.

They also allow you to try out new foods, cooking styles and diet regimens without much commitment or knowledge.

And in many cases, you're supporting small farmers and food producers who supply the food for the meal kits.

A quick look at 8 meal kit programs

Below is an at-a-glance look at each of the eight dinner kit businesses we tried.

Seven offer subscriptions with the option of pausing, skipping a week or canceling anytime. One (Chef’d) offers a la carte ordering. Most offer introductory deals for the first shipment.

All come in refrigerated boxes with preportioned ingredients and colorful, sturdy recipe cards with illustrated step-by-step instructions.

Except where listed, deliveries are made to all of the contiguous United States. 

All boast use of original recipes and conscientious sourcing of ingredients.

Prices listed below are for a week of three meals of two servings each, the option we sampled. We’ve also included the prices we actually paid, which sometimes included special offers or coupons.

Typically, family (four-serving) meal plans with child-friendly recipes also are offered, and some have plans for special diets. Except where noted, shipping is included in the price.

Blue Apron

• Focus/distinguishing feature: Fresh ingredients sourced from small- to medium-sized farms, which agree to grow unique foods unavailable in grocery stores – like Fairytale eggplant and pink lemons.
• Price: $59.94 / $9.99 per serving
• We paid: $29.97 with introductory offer of $30 off first order (three servings free)
• Meal timing: Cook time, 15 to 45 minutes.
• Flexibility: Two-person subscribers choose three of six weekly recipe options. Subscribers can set dietary preferences. Recipes do not repeat in the same year. No accommodations for special diets.
• Nutrition: Calories only; 500 to 800 per serving on average.
• (Meats are antibiotic- and hormone-free)
• Web features: Videos on basic cooking tasks. Features on growers/vendors. Separate wine program offered. Recipes are also online (may include more information).
• Overall impressions: Flavors of the meals we tried blended nicely and came together quickly. Generally appealing dishes, even for kids.

Hello Fresh

• Focus/distinguishing feature: Fresh ingredients, healthy meals (its staff includes a registered dietitian). Partnership with Jamie Oliver for one recipe each week.
• Price: $69 / $11.50 per serving
• We paid: $31 for a Groupon (saving us $38 on first order)
• Meal timing: 30 to 45 minutes.
• Flexibility: Classic and vegetarian (two or four servings) and family (two adults, two kids) meal plans offered; two to five meals a week, depending on plan. Classic plan offers recipe choices. No accommodations for special diets.
• Nutrition: Calories, fat, saturated fat, protein, carbs, sugar, sodium and fiber. Calories average 500 to 800 per serving.
• Web features: Recipes are archived on the site.
• Overall impressions: Meal ingredients are conveniently packed in separate boxes. Recipes were simple but not as creative as others we tried.

Plated

• Focus/distinguishing feature: Chef-designed recipes featuring sustainable, artisanal ingredients. Compostable insulation lines the shipping box.
• Price: $72 / $12 a serving. $6 shipping charged for two-meal orders. (Special Chef’s Table meals cost more.)
• We paid: $48 with introductory offer of 2 free servings ($24 off)
• Meal timing: 20 minutes to under an hour.
• Flexibility: Choose from nine recipes each week, two to seven meals of two servings each (no family plan). Select a preference (omnivore, vegetarian, seafood lover, dessert seeker). Dessert can be added for $4. No accommodations for special diets.
• Nutrition: Calories only; they average 600 to 800 per serving.
• Web features: Recipes are available for purchased meals. See photos of featured farms and products used.
• Overall impressions: Quality of ingredients was good, but the meals we tried probably would not be filling enough for an average adult male. Recipe tips were helpful.

Martha & Marley Spoon

• Focus/distinguishing feature: Recipes from Martha Stewart.
• Price: $61.50 / $10.25 a serving
• We paid: $26.50 with coupon code for $35 off first order
• Meal timing: 20 to 40 minutes.
• Flexibility: Customers make recipes selections. Two to four meals per week. No accommodations for special diets. Delivers to “most” of the contiguous states.
• Nutrition: Calories only on cards; fat, protein, carbs listed with the recipe online.
• Web features: Online recipes provide instructions but not amounts.
• Overall impressions: This was not our favorite. Recipes were uninspired and disappointing considering the source (Martha) and promising ingredients.

Green Chef

• Focus/distinguishing feature: Meal plans for six different diets. Almost all ingredients are certified organic. All packaging is made from recycled, reusable, and/or compostable materials (including compostable insulation in shipping box).
• Price: $71.94 / $11.99 per serving for omnivore plan. (Vegetarian is cheapest at $10.49; paleo is priciest at $14.99.) Shipping is an extra $9 a box. New customers can try one dinner free.
• We paid: $26.98 with introductory offer of four free servings
• Meal timing: 20 to 40 minutes.
• Flexibility: Vegetarian, omnivore, vegan, carnivore, gluten-free and paleo plans. Delivers to limited areas in Wisconsin (Milwaukee area only) and Minnesota.
• Nutrition: Calories only on cards; 450 to 750 per serving. Complete nutrition facts labels with recipes online.
• Web features: Recipes online include recipes to make the prepared sauces and seasoning blends sent with the meals.
• Overall impressions: Creative, flavorful recipes with mouthwatering pictures. Thoughtful directions and a few pre-prepped ingredients made it easy to create complex meals in about 30 minutes. Ingredient packaging was well-designed with color-coded stickers.

Purple Carrot

• Focus/distinguishing feature: Vegan. Ingredients are “often organic, ethically sourced and always non-GMO.”
• Price: $68 / $11.33 per serving
• We paid: $48 with coupon code for $20 off first order
• Meal timing: 45 minutes or less.
• Flexibility: Meal plans are fixed. No accommodations for special diets.
• Nutrition: Recipes include calories, fat, carbs and protein. Calories average 500 to 800 per serving.
• Web features: Visitors have to register and log in to see recipes.
• Overall impressions: Great resource for vegans or vegan wannabes, with colorful and creative dishes. Quality of produce was hit-or-miss. Pricey for fully plant-based meals.

Chef’d

• Focus/distinguishing feature: Recipe partnerships with “brands” such as Weight Watchers, New York Times Cooking and AllRecipes.com and with three dozen celebrity chefs. Also recipes from the Chef’d staff.
• Price: Varies from $15 to $39 for a meal for two, but most are in the mid-$20s and up.
• We paid: Our three meals totaled $89 ($25, $29 and $33 each). No coupons or discounts.
• Meal timing: Typically 30 to 45 minutes.
• Flexibility: No subscription required. A la carte ordering from hundreds of recipe choices (see focus above). Can filter recipes by attributes like family-friendly, gluten-free or quick and easy and proteins of your choice.
• Nutrition: Nutrition Facts labels online for each recipe, but serving sizes listed do not match up with the recipes, making the information unclear.
• Web features: Customer reviews of recipes.
• Overall impressions: The best thing about this plan is the many choices from well-known chefs and brands. This is the priciest option, and you don’t necessarily get what you pay for. One dish was deliciously date-night-worthy, but another fell way short. The other meal could have been made for half the cost buying the ingredients yourself.

Peach Dish

• Focus/distinguishing feature: Southern-inspired recipes, ingredients sourced from farms in the Southeast.
• Price: $75 / $12.50 per serving
• We paid: $67, included $7 “guest order” shipping (coupon code for $15 off)
• Meal timing: 15 to 45 minutes
• Flexibility: Eight to choose from each week; four change weekly, four change seasonally.
• Nutrition: Recipe cards include a complete Nutrition Facts label.
• Web features: Site includes a map of all the farmers they source ingredients from. Blog includes beer and wine pairings for each week.
• Overall impressions: Southern ingredients add unfamiliar flair for those outside of the South (for example: long beans, okra and a regional brand of sauce). Directions were clear and concise. Portions were ample, and ingredients came with minimal packaging.

Meals we tested

Here are all the meals we tried out over the summer. Most meal kit companies rotate selections seasonally, so these might not all be still available for ordering.

BLUE APRON

• Seared Steak & Spiced Potato with Sautéed Sugar Snap Peas & Tarragon-Labneh Sauce
• Crispy Catfish & Parsley Mashed Potatoes with Spicy Cajun Slaw (recipe)
• Spicy Hoisin Turkey Meatballs with Sautéed Zucchini & Brown Rice

HELLO FRESH

• Chicken with Mashed Sweet Potatoes and Roasted Broccolini
• Beef Sizzle Stir-Fry with Jasmine Rice
• Sautéed Shrimp and Collard Greens over Cheddar Grits

PLATED

• Beef and Lamb Meatball Bánh Mì with Herb Salad
• Warm Goat Cheese Salad with Summer Squash and Shallot Vinaigrette (recipe)
• Curried Chicken Lettuce Cups with Celery, Cashews and Grapes

MARTHA & MARLEY SPOON

• Seared Steak with Grilled Romaine
• Caprese Stuffed Portobellos with Bulgur & Herb Salad
• Miso Cod & Bamboo Rice with Sesame Spinach

GREEN CHEF

• Buffalo-Blue Chicken Bowl
• Strawberry Balsamic Steak
• Arugula-Pistou Pasta

PURPLE CARROT

• Zoodles with Pumpkin Seed Pesto, Nectarines and Crispy Chickpeas
• Confetti Quinoa with Sweet Tempeh Croutons and Cucumber Salad
• Deconstructed Red Bean Enchiladas with Sautéed Peppers and Onions

CHEF’D

• Scallops and Apple Gastrique
• Weeknight Chicken Pad Thai
• Beef Bourguignon (recipe)

PEACH DISH

• Smoked Salmon Flatbread with Artichoke and Arugula (recipe)
• Roasted Okra & Peppers with Peanut Vinaigrette over Farro
• Pork Hot Pot with Long Beans & Glazed Potatoes